Massacre Bay

Last weekend we ventured out on a hike to Massacre Bay with a group of friends. In this particular bay in 1787 the French encountered Samoans, one thing lead to another and there were a few deaths-on both sides. The French constructed a monument here and it is visited periodically by a French navel vessel I'm told.





The bay is very isolated. It is only accessible via a 1 ½ hour hike or a long boat ride from another village. There is a village there but it is only inhabited when the plantation there is being tended. For the most part it is abandoned. It's nice to know that after a long hike you are going to have a prestine beach all to yourself.





The bay is beautiful though the snorkeling isn’t good due to coral death. A few friends of mine had done this hike a couple of weeks prior and, leaving too late in the day, couldn’t find the path home and retreated to the beach to await rescue by their husbands. These are very capable and independent women so the ordeal was less terrifying and more mortifying. Read here for a his and hers version of the experience.



The trail was a bit difficult to find but once found was good though somewhat overgrown. I was glad we had brought our machete. We had come anticipating needing to mark the trail at the descending point.


















We flagged the trail with plastic bags and Markus marked trees with the machete. Even with that we veered away from the trail a bit on our way back. It was easy to see how the last group had become disoriented.



















The bay has large swaths of nice white sand, which is hard to find here on Tutuila. There is a lovely clean stream that empties out to the ocean as well. Lonely Planet discusses a waterfall but we didn’t venture out to find it this visit.








There are multiple abandoned fale and concrete pads from when there used to be a village here. The monument is easy to find, set back in the middle of the village.










The views along the way are really breathtaking. And there was a strong breeze that kept us cool. At the end of the trail there is a nice grassy hill to stretch out and rest and enjoy the view.


The photos in this blog are all borrowed as my memory card for my camera died. For a couple other friends reviews of the hike check out Weaver’s Blog and Aaron’s Blog.


Directions to Massacre Bay:

Drive on the main road (Road 1) heading West from Central Tutuila. Turn right at Pava'ia'i (Road 2) there are markets here on both sides of the road . Go all the way to the top of Mt Olotele to the village of A'oloaufou. There is a yellow store on the right hand side of the road. When we visited it was closed. This is the store where you should get permission to hike if it is open. A bit further down the road on the right is a white church with blue accent paint. It is set back from the road. There is a very nice concrete road to the left of the church. Turn right here. Follow the road all the way down until it becomes a dirt road and you pass a pasture on your left with cows (yes cows!). Park off the road on your right. It’s a good idea to get permission from the family that this property is adjacent too, though I’m not sure it is officially their land. Backtrack to the road, and follow it past a few houses. It will become a dirt track. You will come to a final shack and it looks like the trail dead ends. There will be the grassy hillock with a bench and a view down into the bay. To the left is an overgrown grassy area. As you approach the grassy area you should be able to see a path. This is the “trail head”. From this point the trail is obvious until you start to descend. During this descent watch for flags, marks on trees or leave your own trail markers. Be very conscious of your surroundings because it will all look the same on your return ascent. When you reach the beach, mark where you exited as the bush can miraculously close and the beach side trailhead become invisible. Leave with enough daylight to get back in time, bring enough water, etc. to stay the night if necessary, consider a flashlight and let people know where you are going and what time you expect to be back.